Friday, July 27, 2007

Basics of Buying a Suit

Stumbled on this funny introduction on suits, and how to select one.

And that is exactly what it will do, if you treat it right. Unfortunately the majority of suits you see look awful. This isn’t necessary. Even if you work ten hours with your jacket on, being mindful of your clothing will keep you ready for cocktails after work. Too many men either don’t care or don’t know how to wear a suit, and, suitably, look like shit. This is worth avoiding.


I'd also like to call out one piece of information in particular: "Trends have six-to-eighteen-month shelf lives. If you plan to retire your suit in this window, feel free to splurge. Otherwise, shop considerately." Words to live by.

The Morning News Men’s Fashion: Suits

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Thursday, July 05, 2007

Great Almost-All-Year-Round Look

Check this out. The hoodie-suit jacket thing is old, but this way, looks new.

Details here are the unlined jacket and very lightweight hoodie.



Sport coat and shirt by Calvin Klein Collection. Hoodie by Acne Jeans. Tie by Band of Outsiders.

Link

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Monday, April 30, 2007

Best. Shoes. Ever.

Thought I might seize the opportunity to point out one of my favorite shoemakers, Edward Green.













They're not kidding when they say that their shoes are for the "discerning few." I won't point out the prices here. Instead, I urge you to visit and use their site as a guide for better understanding what makes a great shoe.



[link]

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Thursday, April 19, 2007

Classy, Casual Watch from Burberry

Great find. Perfect for pairing with your spring wardrobe, and not pricey, either.







Swiss-made, classic-yet-sporty look, and not too overly branded -- which I always hate. A great addition to almost any man's collection.


$525.00



Link



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Better Shoe at Nordstrom

My quest for the perfect brown leather wingtip oxford

continues, with better results at Nordstrom.









Mezlan 'Trenton' Oxford, $235.00






I like a number of things about this shoe: The leather approaches that golden, organic and slightly imperfect look I'm after -- I despise brown leather in that bland, generic-looking Crayola brown. It's also lean-looking, but not thin and pointy enough to make your feet look like little boats, which is a constant fear of mine. (Perhaps guys with smaller feet don't have this worry.)



I do wish there was a bit more detailing on the toe. The search continues.



Link

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Men's Outerwear, a Conversation

Welcome to the wild, ill-defined world of men's outerwear -- a world where there are no rules, and confusion reigns supreme. Submitted for your approval, a mere sampling of my everyday communications.



A concerned reader IMs:



xxxxxx: hi chris, can you help me find a jacket?

Me: Sure, I'll try. What are you looking for?



xxxxxx: looking for a jacket. kind of long, and in black.

Me: hmm. I'm going to need some more detail on that. :-) Jacket, as in a coat?



xxxxxx: i think so

Me: So, you mean outerwear?



xxxxxx: well, you wear it... outside. but not a winter coat

Me: Hm. And, hmm... Not a raincoat, specifically?

xxxxxx: y. nt a raincoat.





xxxxxx: a regular jacket. or coat. what's the difference?

Me: For one thing, all coats are outerwear... not all jackets are. Generally.

Me: Er, okay. So: A coat. Outerwear. Black. Right? What style?



xxxxxx: um longish. not heavy.

Me: Longish = "full length?"

xxxxxx: yYes, full length.



xxxxxx: wait

xxxxxx: what is full length?

xxxxxx: to my feet?



Me: You're thinking of a robe. :-) Unless you're monk, full-length = all the way to your shins.



xxxxxx: ok, not that long

Me: Now we're getting somewhere. Do you mean a three-quarter-length coat? Above the knee?



xxxxxx: yes!! like that. but there's a particular name for it



Me: Do you mean a car coat?





xxxxxx: car coat? !!@#!

xxxxxx: what's that?



Me: Uh, a specialized type of not-full-length coat.



xxxxxx: ...



Me: These days, it's just a name thing. Some three-quarter-length coats are car coats.

Me: Some aren't. Depends on who you ask.

xxxxxx: !@#!@#! i am so confused



Me: Heh. Join the club. Let's try a different approach: Does it look like this?

Me:









Me: That's from Jos. A. Banks. A less expensive retailer of reasonably good-quality, if somewhat uninspired, menswear. That's their idea of a "car coat."

xxxxxx: OMG YES! THAT LOOKS ALMOST PEFECT



Me: Happy to help. Jos. A. Banks calls that a car coat. Ahem, a "three-quarter car coat."

xxxxxx: THANKS!



xxxxxx: actually r there full-length car coats?

xxxxxx: maybe i'm looking for a longer jacket

xxxxxx: or is it a coat? or…



xxxxxx: !@#!@!



Me: A longer car coat? I think all car coats are three-quarter length.

Me: If it's fuller-length, it becomes a top coat. Then an overcoat at its longest, though the precise difference is debatable.



xxxxxx: what's the difference btn three quarter length and normal

xxxxxx: between that and a car coat



Me: Sometimes there isn't one. Sometimes small details.

Me: But everyone's definitions are a little different on stuff like this. One man's car coat is one man's three-quarter-length coat.



xxxxxx: okm so i am definitely looking for a three-quarter legnth jacket?

xxxxxx: coat?

xxxxxx: car coat



xxxxxx: !%@#! this





Me: OK, I know it's confusing. Hang in there.

Me: What didn't you like about that car coat?



xxxxxx: i wanted one longer, but not a car coat

xxxxxx: or a p-coat, is that similar?



xxxxxx: !@!!# srry, i closed the window. what are my optiosn again? can you go over the difference in coats/jackets/whatever





Me: Man. Let's start with jackets. They go down to the waist.

Me: Er, except for military and safari jackets. And field jackets.

Me: Well, I guess jackets end just below the hips.

Me: Top coats are usually full-length.

Me: Car coats and three-quarter-length coats are about the same length. Sometimes they differ in collar and other details. Sometimes car coats are more casual.



xxxxxx: rain coats?

Me: Rain coats can be any length, beyond the hips. Their definition depends more on material and build. There are perhaps a dozen different types of those, like the Mackintosh, or trench coat. Which aren't the same thing.



Me: Of course, these are just guidelines. Some "jackets" can be as long as coats.

xxxxxx: are you kidding me



Me: ...For example, the ones I mentioned before. Also things like pea coats -- which you mentioned -- the similar "reefer", and the Nehru (of which Sammy Davis Jr. claimed to have more than 200).



xxxxxx: ?



Me: The main thing to keep in mind: These can be the same length as the shorter coats. Terms are not clearly when it comes to marketing these in the U.S., and much of the rigorously defined terminology has been lost, or is ignored today outside of the trade.



Me: Finally, suit jackets and sport jackets are different beasts altogether -- what we've been discussing is outerwear only.



xxxxxx: ok, is this a coat?











Me: That's from Nordstrom, right? It's familiar.

xxxxxx: yes. the page says its a short coat... AND a jacket

xxxxxx: !@#%!

xxxxxx: this! this is ridicuous !@$!%



Me: Stay with me, xxxxxx. :-) That picture is either one, depending on your own definition. There's a grey area there.



Me: Let's start over. So, if you're looking for a coat -- rather than a waist-length jacket -- you may be looking for a three-quarter-length coat, or more specifically, a car coat.

Me: Do a Google search for those terms, and see if you like what you find. Want 'em any longer? Then it's a full-length coat you're after.

xxxxxx: ok. think i ve got it now. THANK YOU SO MUCH.





(Time passes)



xxxxxx:
i decided on a "car coat" !! it is PERFECT - couldn't have done it without you.

xxxxxx: it is the precisely knid of thing i am going to be looking for

Me: Oh yeah? Glad to have helped. Got a link? I'd like to post this conversation online if it's okay with you.



xxxxxx: fine, just blacnk out my name. you helped a lot. thanks again.

xxxxxx: oh yes, got a picture for you.

xxxxxx:





Me:

Me: I just died a little inside.





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Great shoe at Polo

This shoe is about 90% of the perfect shoe I've been seeking for the past several months. It's part of their idiotically themed "Savannah: Vintage-Inspired Looks" er, look. But don't let that fool you: This shoe is golden.



I wish there were a bit less side detailing (does anyone know the technical term for that? I confess, my knowledge of shoe nomenclature is pretty thin) but I'd still wear it in a heartbeat -- with jeans or something decidedly NOT inspired by the preppy Southern gentry.







Link

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Monday, April 09, 2007

NYT on Grays and Menswear

A few interesting looks again from the Times. My favorite:







Although, I am a bit distressed by this comment:



“Light gray is the new khaki,” said Tommy Fazio, the men’s fashion

director for Bergdorf Goodman. “I’ve been noticing that customers are

reacting to lighter and lighter grays. It’s a fresh new neutral that a

lot of things look good with.”



...Naturally, I'm concerned that light gray becoming the new khaki will see everyone in gray, to borrow from the old Gap campaign. And that just won't do -- after all, what will I be wearing then?



Link

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Wednesday, March 28, 2007

NYT Feature on Men's Jewelry

The NYT gets with the program and produces some rather immense coverage on the subject of the popularity of men's jewelry. Too bad they're, what, five-six years too late?



Ever since the bling bang, a “why not?” kind of attitude has prevailed. All kinds of men — from the designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce to the tennis player Marat Safin — feel comfortable flaunting jewelry.




Whatever. The good part of the story is the photo...







And the Homeric-in-scope caption:



On arm, from left: chain-link and id bracelets from Dean Harris, Gucci, Baroni Designs, David Yurman, Hermès, Tiffany & Company and Baroni Designs. Around neck, from top: John Hardy necklace. Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane teddybear pendant and chain. Maison Martin Margiela line 11 large-link chain. David Yurman dog-tag necklace. Tenthousandthings yellowgold chain. Yves Saint Laurent silver shell necklace. Gucci silver cord necklace with ebony rings. D&G anchor pendant and chain. Cartier gold chain. Louis Vuitton crest Pendant and chain. Garrard Gold wing pendant and chain. Stuart England Napoleon coin pendant and chain. Giles & Brother by Philip CCrangi safety-pin pendant and chain. Rogues Gallery propeller pendant and chain. Hanes tank. On arm, from left: chain-link and id bracelets from Dean Harris, Gucci, Baroni Designs, David Yurman, Hermès, Tiffany & Company and Baroni Designs. Around neck, from top: John Hardy necklace. Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane teddybear pendant and chain. Maison Martin Margiela line 11 large-link chain. David Yurman dog-tag necklace. Tenthousandthings yellowgold chain. Yves Saint Laurent silver shell necklace. Gucci silver cord necklace with ebony rings. D&G anchor pendant and chain. Cartier gold chain. Louis Vuitton crest Pendant and chain. Garrard Gold wing pendant and chain. Stuart England Napoleon coin pendant and chain. Giles & Brother by Philip CCrangi safety-pin pendant and chain. Rogues Gallery propeller pendant and chain. Hanes tank.




This is both a very useful reference for some of my favorite men's jewelry designers and retailers, and pretty insane to have to read through. Save this list.



[link]

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Friday, February 09, 2007

Nom de Guerre Unveils Spring / Summer 2007 Collection

Nom de Guerre is taking the wraps off its Spring/Summer 2007 Collection. It's a bit different, but many of the pieces are completely wearable even by those for whom cardigans are so last year.



Here are a few of my picks: (Yes, I'm aware about the tilty nature of the first picture.)













Enjoy.



Nom de Guerre

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Wednesday, September 13, 2006

NYC Fashion Week Continues: The Highs, the Lows, the Hotpants

Our NYC Fashion Week Spring 2007 coverage plods on like a vacant runway model wearing something ill-fitting and embarrassing. Today, we look at a few more collections bound for... being ignored.

Or are we being a bit too hasty?

John Varvatos
Indeed, we are jumping the gun a bit -- but who can blame us, since it's John Varvatos that delivers the goods... which is either a sign of how bland the entire menswear segment is these days, or is a sign that the brand is, somewhat, more hipper than usual.














Photos from New York Magazine.

Of course, the latest collection from John Varvatos should remind you of stuff you've already seen, from younger brands, from recent years. But, hey, it still looks good now, is fun, youthful, reasonably cool, and entirely wearable.

Cloak
On to Cloak, a brand that burst onto the scene with great-looking, eminently original looks perfect for the workplace (if that workplace happens to be KGB headquarters) or the nightclub (Club Gulag). Its Russian-military chic now a thing of the past, along with Fall's far more restrained looks, Cloak today served up another anachronistic collection: This time, the inspiration seemed to be New Wave... in a sort of hulking, scary, European way.

At any rate, the suits looked fantastic, very slim and hip. Here are some of our picks, and note the pervasive sheen -- an unfortunate trend in menswear these days.









Cloak: Go for the freakshow, you stay for the suits.

Duckie Brown
That also reminds me of Duckie Brown, another label we've typically associated with, ah, "distinctive". The strange was (mostly) absent from Duckie Brown's collection this time around (barring some playing around with sizing, as you'll note.)









Paging Dr. Fashion! The scrubs-looking drawstring pants are probably not for everyone. But the shirt and jacket are boss.

Some other goodies from DB:





So hot right now
Meanwhile, the Fug Girls at NYMag.com wrap up the menswear at the Darth Vader-inspired (you read that right) Narciso Rodriguez show:

But as far as the menswear went ... well, let's put it this way: Darth Vader — Luke Skywalker, for that matter — wouldn't be caught dead in a black tulle tank top. Nor, we suspect, would he be interested in wearing formal briefs (that is, man-shorts) or well-tailored suit jackets sans shirt. The Narciso man, on the other hand, is apparently uninterested in wearing what's required in any of New York's finer eating establishments — namely, SHIRTS and PANTS.



Egad.

Link: "Narciso Rodriguez: Inspired by Darth Vader, Men's Hot Pants" (NYMag.com)

Perry Ellis, Lacoste, and others also came out in support of a man's right to wear short short. I trust you can take my word on it. (But if not.)

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Monday, September 11, 2006

Bring in the Bland: It's NYC Fashion Week!

I've been saying it for some time: This past season has been little more than bland, boring, generic, and uninteresting. And if Fashion Week Fall 2006 is any indication, Spring 2007 is going to be more of the same. Egad.

That being said, we here at Stylezilla remain dedicated to bringing you the latest in looks you can use -- with the caveat, of course, that many of these looks are fairly simple. For some, that's a blessing: Those without a great deal of innate fashion sense should continue to do well for the foreseeable future. And getting decked out in the same sort of looks you see on the runway has never been easier. That being said, if you're into something a bit more envelope-pushing, there's still hope for Paris.

Today: DKNY and John Bartlett, photos from New York Magazine's Fashion Week "Live" coverage.

DKNY: Spring 2007










Note: Unless you are actively working as a runway model, don't ever wear your dress shirt like this.






Incidentally, fashion press... YOU CALL THIS COLOR?

John Bartlett: Spring 2007










Note: Not an easy look to pull off for most.






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Friday, September 08, 2006

Hugo Boss Orange at Saks

Hope you all survived the stampede over at the Barneys Warehouse Sale.

Today, I'm having a look at the new Hugo Boss Orange collection over at Saks. First, however, here's a primer on how Hugo Boss' collections break down: "Boss Black" is considered the brand's upscale and classy mass-market label. "Boss Orange" is a more casual sportswear look, and a bit more adventurous. Plain "Hugo" (AKA "Red") is Boss Green seems to be comprised largely of ski jackets, weirdly.



Brushed Gabardine Pant, $175




Savanno Zip Sweatshirt, $185




Wils-Crafted Shirt, $155

Odd hem detail, but otherwise, the shirt looks great.


Eh. These were the only ones I pulled out that seemed anything other than generic and uninteresting. You've got to admit, despite some of their cool runway looks, when it comes to what's actually available in retail, Hugo Boss is in danger of becoming the new John Varvatos. Then again, John Varvatos has IGGY POP, of all people, in their current ad campaign -- so who knows what's really going on. I didn't think Iggy even knew how to wear a shirt.

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Thursday, August 24, 2006

Steel Yourself, NYC: Barneys Warehouse Sale

If you haven't already gone to the Barneys Warehouse Sale in NYC, you've got until Sept. 4.

Last year, I scored several dress shirts (one of which I'm wearing today), an armful of black dress socks. The year before that, my best find was an assortment of pocket squares, most of which I've since lost in several apartment moves. Nevertheless, it stands as my finest achievement at the Warehouse sale.

For those new to the battle royale-like atmosphere at the Barneys Warehouse Sale, it's a great way to pick up fine menswear at reasonable prices -- if you've got the guts. And by that, I mean that the place is a madhouse of ransacking: everyone is scurrying around, or digging explosively through boxes of shirts, socks, and sweaters, burying their spouse or kid underneath a pile of slacks, or dropping trou to try on suit separates right there in the aisle.

It's much worse for women, who are one floor above (as usual, the menswear is relegated to the basement) where I've witnessed actual fights breaking out in the footwear area. Not pretty.

At any rate, down in the cramped, dimly-lit menswear floor of the Barneys Warehouse Sale, there are usually tons of suits in most sizes, and *always* a great variety of dress shirts, sport shirts, socks and underwear, and other basics. Occasional gems can be found among the sweaters, ties, shoes and sportswear.

New crap comes in daily, so it behooves you to brave the masses more than once -- a monumental effort, to be sure, but worth it if you're like me, and simply enjoy the sheer chaos of humans rooting through boxes of slacks and undergarments like truffle-hunting pigs.

If you live in L.A., you missed it -- the sale ended on Aug. 20. Also, your city's pollution is worse. Cheers!

BELOW: Some recent menswear from Barneys.



Barneys New York woven shirt, $145.00



Etro woven shirt, $265.00

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Thursday, August 17, 2006

Stylezilla Is Back, And Not A Moment Too Soon

Hello, and welcome from hot and humid New York City. Much has been afoot here at Stylezilla HQ. We've recently relocated cross-town to Hell's Kitchen, and the completion of a recent freelance assignment (about which I'm sworn to confidentiality) means we can again begin posting. Huzzah!

Thanks to everyone who dropped me a line to ask how we're doing (even if most of you were more motivated out of a need to get quick answers to your fashion conundrums.)

At any rate, we're back. And just in time.

...because things are looking downright dire in the world of men's fashion. We'll be exploring this unfortunate turn of events in more detail in the coming weeks, but suffice to say that things are BLAND, BLAND, BLAND.

Meanwhile, kudos to the mysterious and snarky powers behind FakeHandbags for keeping the flame alive with occasional and irreverent posts on men's fashion. Yes, the Esquire Best Dressed Men contest is always a farce. (Although we're also pleased about David Craig, and about Nick Cave making a reappearance.)




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Thursday, December 08, 2005

Rock and Roll, and Jack Spade Too: Picks from Refinery29.com

Refinery29.com highlights a few must-see places for haute-cool men's fashion shopping in New York. In the spirit of holiday giving, feel free to print this out and leave it for your Significant Other to find.

Chief among its picks is Japanese high-end streetwear/couture shop Number (N)ine. Refinery29's Gabriel Bell writes:

Prep your preppy for the concrete jungle at high-end punk outfitters Number (N)ine with slip-on sneakers, $295, zipped lambskin receipt wallets, $295, wool fingerless gloves, $75, and this rough and tumble men's leather bracelet, $170.


Other picks include $25 Jack Spade pocket squares (definitely worth looking into, even if you're not a huge fan of the label, which I typically find plain and unadventurous) and higher-end wares from Atelier, closer in spirit to Number (N)ine. These include a $350 leather/silver Werkstatt-Muenchen bracelet, a $1,300 Carpe Diem boots and Geffrey Young washed leather belt for $450.

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Monday, November 14, 2005

Reader Question: Full-Court Fashion

A reader from Richardson, TX writes:

My husband, whose 34,just became an attorney. He needs suits, and we can't seem to agree on what works best for his career and age. Can you suggest any suit choices that are appropriate for him. Thanks!

When at all in doubt, pick a conservative suit. If the workload or office requires a less risk-averse look, you can always liven up a suit with a younger-feeling shirt and/or tie.

Conservative suits: You can't go wrong with navy, charcoal or gray.


Charcoal suit by Charles Tyrwitt


Note that three buttons is generally considered "hipper" than two-button suits. But Tyrwitt's cut is lean and English, and entirely old-school. Stay away from double-breasted at present.

Another, darker charcoal suit by C.T.



Here's an example of a conservative navy suit with a decidedly funky shirt-and-tie combo.



You'd want to save this particular shirt and tie for a night on the town, say, after your first big courtroom win.

Now, on pinstripes. The below pinstriped, conservative look has always said "boardroom chic."



A very arch-conservative, power-broker sort of look; more corporate law than, say, defense. You also see mob lawyers and "power attorneys" wearing pinstriped suits; they've always been able to get away with this.

But really, there aren't many rules governing suits. The suit is actually all about framing the shirt and tie. Here is where sound fashion decisions are made or fumbled.

From the IHT: "At the end of the day, it's all about the shirt," observes Raman Bet-Mansour, a Paris-based partner in the New York law firm Debevoise & Plimpton. "Suits, you have single or double-breasted, two or three buttons — that's it. Not much news in ties either."

So, your answer is this: Stay relatively conservative with suits. Experiment a bit with shirts. See Thomas Pink, for instance. A solid Pink shirt (I'm talking about the brand here) can be as conservative or as lax as you wish -- just pick a conservative or more youthful tie.

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Three Celebs' Style

A sampling of the styles of the attendees at the most recent Victoria's Secret Fashion Show here in the city, with some easily steal-able (if utterly *normal*) looks. Yes, I said Victoria's Secret. If you came seeking pictures of women and not men's fashion, you can find those here.

For those of you still here, on with the show.



Pharrell Williams (of N.E.R.D., The Neptunes, practically every popular song, ever fame). Even though he's making a weird face here, Pharrell is pretty much the man. He's always classy, and has been dressing the part since long before we first heard of Kanye.



Lenny Kravitz, of course, who's looking somewhat like a normal civilian instead of his usual rock star self.



Usher, sporting the current de-facto going-out uniform of t-shirt, velvet jacket and jeans.

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Tuesday, October 25, 2005

J. Lindeberg Blazer



A reasonable deal on this J. Lindeberg two-button pinstripe jacket over at Standard Style. Slim cut, single breast pocket, four-button detailing on the cuffs, flap pockets, three interior pockets -- the Mick Narrow Pin Blazer is a reliable, all-purpose sports jacket (not actually a blazer) -- pair it with matching (or black) pants for the office, or jeans for going out at night, cargos for a more urban look, etc.

[Via ProductDose]

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Friday, October 21, 2005

Cloak for Spring 06: Military Safari Madness!

Take a look at Cloak's most recent show in New York. It's a good example of what people will be wearing -- or continue to be wearing, if you ask me, since military-inspired fashion has been in for ages now, particularly during the past year or so.

I loved Cloak since it first came on the scene. Now it's gone mainstream, and traded in a bit of its original fascination with the jackboots-and-truncheons look for... some strange amalgamation of safari chic and rock and roll.

It works. The safari-inspired look has a feeling of being new, which makes the entire collection feel like it isn't the same old thing, which, when it comes to menswear, is how everything looks after a couple of years. Though, I do have Duran Duran's "Hungry Like the Wolf" running through my head each time I see these.










Two great portions of a three-piece suit, with black jeans. In the real world, you would know to tuck in your shirt, right?


Double-breasted suits still on the horizon.





These last two are killer looks, by the way... If you're a working male model. If you're one of the 99%+ of the population who isn't, you need to think a bit differently. In the next-to-last pic, keep the grey coat. In the bottom photo, keep the shorts only if you can work it without looking like a bike courier. Otherwise, you can pair it with white, light, or medium-dark pants with ease.

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Monday, August 15, 2005

File Under: How to Dress Like a Dork

What's one of the men's fashion world's longest-running jokes? Tommy Bahama, "Purveyor of Island Lifestyles."









BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I've always wondered whether this label was just started as a bet -- "$50 to whoever gets men to look the most idiotic!"

But why has it been around since 1992? Who keeps buying it?!?!? Why does it even continue to exist??!?! I'm hoping, hoping, hoping that the men's line is a loss-leader for the company, and it's only the women's wear that keeps them in business. But I know this is fantasy.

Make no mistake, friend. Wear a Tommy Bahama tropical print shirt and you WILL look like a dork. Think it's appropriate for "retire-wear?" Think again. If you are over 65 and wearing Tommy Bahama, you will only look like a retired dork. Tommy Bahama is appropriate only for a select few: Those of us actively bartending at tropical resorts. And then, only during work hours.

It took me ages to understand the reality: Tommy Bahama IS a joke. And if you wear it, the joke's on you.

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Tuesday, August 09, 2005

The John Varvatos Man... Revealed!

Here's an interview with a shop clerk at John Varvatos, in which the all-important question is asked about "The John Varvatos Man:" Is he straight?

"A: We used to be more popular with gay men; that’s tailing off a little bit. Our average client is mid-thirties to early fifties, and he has a wife who wants him to look good."

The Varvatos-gay thing is really old, but it's probably worth mentioning even as a historical footnote. What's strange is that I'm surprised he found such a following, since I find his stuff really, uh, reserved. Like Joseph Abboud, only, a bit less edgy. (Ha!) I can't imagine being a gay man and trying to impress wearing Varvatos. But maybe that's just me. The clothes are well-designed and traditionally classy, if sort of unimaginative. I should ask my gay friends (gay, that is, and REALLY into being gay) whether the Varvatos line still has any special cachet there. But that would involve researching something, when ill-informed pontification is so much easier.

For me, the Varvatos Man is neither straight nor gay. Just boring.

I own a pair of Varvatos sandals, and that's about it. I think I might have a belt somewhere, too. You know my clothing preferences, but in the interest of completeness, let's take a look at the Varvatos Men's Fall/Winter 05 lineup.









Are you as bored as I am? I tried to pick out the most exciting styles here, but check out his other stuff, too -- maybe you'll find something that suits your style.

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Friday, July 29, 2005

TODAY: Designer Savings! Martin Margiela, Rogan, et al.

Go, go, go! You have until the end of the day to enjoy 40% off most items at AlohaRag.com. Great finds from Martin Margiela and other haute-ish designers. Also, denim from Rogan, Levi's, and DSQUARED. If you're not thinking, "HOLY CRAP! I'm going to shop like Kevin Federline fathers children!" then I haven't been doing my job.

I'm especially digging all the kickass jewelry. Check out that Wouters & Hendrix Big Logo Bracelet. Also, I'm a fan of that Golden Goose Affair Shirt. Both are below.


Martin Margiela Distressed Boots



Wouters & Hendrix Chain Bracelet



Wouters & Hendrix Big Logo Bracelet



Rachel Comey Micro Strip Pant



Rogan Original Jeans



Golden Goose Affair Shirt

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Thursday, July 28, 2005

Top Picks from eLuxury for Men, PLUS: I'm Okay with Hedi

A random stumble through the Web paid off handsomely during lunchtime today, with a number of great finds on eLuxury.com.

Strangely, they're almost all Dior Homme, which isn't a bad thing. In fact, Hedi Slimane is rapidly becoming one of my favorite designers (this after the media hype around him made it difficult to think much of him after he took the Dior Homme helm.)

A quote from Hedi himself, which I think encapsulates the Stylezilla manifesto quite succinctly: "I'd like to think there's a return to elegance, a revival of the notion of 'fashion' for men. I've mounted a crusade against this informal 'casual Friday' trend. I'd like men to think about evolving into something more sophisticated, more seductive for a change."

Without further ado:


Dior Vintage Leather Belt



Dior Pecari Calfskin Belt



Dior Plaque Bracelet



Dior Club Bracelet with Charm





Dior Double Chain Necklace



Dior Studded Club Bracelet




Dior Destroyed Corduroy Pant





Dior Distressed Velvet Pant




All Day Pique Polo
, from our friends at Penguin.


Dior Skinny Black Tie with Glitter



Louis Vuitton Satin and Flower Tie

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Wednesday, July 27, 2005

Get Your Stylezilla Web Buttons!

Special, limited-time-only offer: Web buttons to promote your favorite Wildly Opinionated Men's Fashion site! I know how you crazy kids like to put up Web buttons when you do the blogging. Now you can put up the only Web button with Tom Ford's face on it.

If they're hard to read, then you know they're working.

Eventually, I'll have some in smaller sizes and with the annoying animations that I know you love. In the meantime, enjoy.

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Thursday, July 21, 2005

Polo Sucks But You Can Still Find a Cool Polo Shirt. Not a "Polo Shirt," Mind You ... Er, Just Keep Reading

For those of you who persist in thinking that Polo Ralph Lauren's casual and business-casual looks are for dorks... you're right. You are officially given notice to cease wearing Polo-branded polo shirts and light summer sweaters. They are far too common to look anything but. I trust you follow my meaning.

That said, you can still find an awesome shirt or two at Polo. *Just not with a visible logo.*

How is this possible? The label's good points: well-constructed shirting. (I won't go into suits, or tuxes, which incidentally I'll be wearing this fall. In both categories, you can do far, far worse.)

Unfortunately, the rest of the label is outweighed in many cases by the bad points: too commonplace on the low end, and comically preppy.

If you're following the preppy look, realize that you can EASILY go overboard. Done wrong, you look like you got lost and wandered off the course somewhere after the 9th hole. In other words, you look like a golfing moron. Good for the links, not so good for everyday life. If you don't look like a golfing moron, you're likely to look like a caricature of Reginald Q. Haughtybottom, III, of the New Canaan Haughtybottoms. I'm from Connecticut, I know Reginald, and he's a buffoon.

And while I'm ranting, popping your collar hit its high-water mark ages ago. (Just like the Killers, incidentally.) Feel free to head-butt or pimp-slap anyone who hasn't gotten the message. (Ditto for the Killers. Credit where credit is due, however: They get a nod for attempting to wear the entire Dior Homme line, even though it really means that Brandon Flowers is trying too hard. And THAT job is taken, see also: The Bravery.)

I've nearly forgotten about the real reason that I'm chiming in today about Polo. A sale, and the one cool Purple Label shirt I found. Note that you will have to click on this picture to see it in all its glory; reducing it in size unfortunately reduces the pattern such that it looks a bit like a pillowcase I once owned.


Broadcloth Striped Windsor


But remember my earlier warning: tie-tucking is inane. Best leave that to models and service-industry folk.

This shirt reminds me of Layer Cake, a film in which Daniel Craig's character always makes sure to go home and put on a crisp new shirt and suit after every beating, shooting, drug deal gone wrong, and similar instance of daily British underworld life.

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Thursday, July 14, 2005

Double-Breasted Jacket Redux

OK, so some readers wrote in taking umbrage with what they thought was assessment about the recent (or would that be upcoming?) spate of double-breasted jackets in my recent post on the Paris/Milan Spring 2005 menswear collections. In this one case, you're right to think that it's possible to look cool in a double-breasted suit. (Of course, I didn't actually say this wasn't the case, but it's not like most of you read what I write too closely, otherwise you wouldn't keep asking whether Seven jeans are still cool or pleats have come back in yet. The answer is no, with extreme prejudice, to both.)

Lest I digress further, there have been cases in which you can look cool in a double-breasted suit.



See? Of course, this is rare. As pictured above, the suit is cut very slim, is white, and sports a different button layout (compare to below.) Consider also that this is in the 70s, and the material (think something synthetic and form-fitting) adds to the effect. The overall result is slimming, rather than bulky -- which is how many double-breasted suits appear on many men today. A skinny tie, sharp boots, and yes, a skinny frame all help dramatically. As they do often. Ask Karl Lagerfeld if you don't believe me.

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Wednesday, July 06, 2005

A Glimpse into the Future: Wearable Looks from the Spring 2006 Men's Collection!

Take a look at what you'll be wearing three seasons from now. Today, we're focusing on the recent Paris and Milan collections from Gucci and Yves St. Laurent. Warning: double-breasted jackets ahead!

For starters, you can keep some of this year's wardrobe. Gucci shows us that the tight single-breasted jacket will still be in -- but keep an eye on the palette for the season.





I'm really digging this two-button jacket with striped tie ensemble.



Awesome, awesome jacket.

YSL's looks are sharp, sharp, sharp with some classic looks.





That suit above is a bit Tom Wolfe-ish, but on a younger guy, you'll look like a million bucks.





Great sweater look.


Now for some controversy. Gucci also thinks you'll be wearing tight, double-breasted suits. We'll see.



The look may be more accessible in black... if at all.



I'm not sold on the double-breasted look myself, but it's worth considering now that it seems to be coming back into vogue in earnest. And lest you think Gucci is operating in a vacuum here (which, of course, mainstream labels NEVER do), Dries Van Noten illustrates that the avant garde faction is also well seated on the double-breasted bandwagon.



MetroNY.com has more info and pix.

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Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Design Your Own Tie

I'm not clear on how I missed this, but Polo Ralph Lauren, who first gave the world the design-your-own polo shirt, has brought us Design Your Own tie. Well, you can design your own tie, as long as it's sorta-regimental. See below. (Vacant-looking doofus not included.)

You can also add your initials, and the "born on" year. Here's a free hint: Only an idiot adds these things to their tie.



However, you can make yourself a decent tie. Of course, you'll also be paying $100 for a tie that looks generic to the extreme. Why not put that money toward a nice tie from Prada, Zegna, or Armani? Hell, even Hilfiger has some cool ties.

Additionally, only an idiot tucks his tie into his waistband like that. Man.

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Wednesday, June 08, 2005

Folding Pocket Squares

This site has some of the most detailed information on folding pocket squares that I've ever seen.



A few of my own notes, though:

Linen pocket squares are a bit less flashy -- but they hold their fold better than silk. This makes them ideal for anything involving points. However, they can appear stuffy, depending on the fold.

The traditional rule is to wear a linen square with a silk tie, and silk square with a non-silk tie. But you can safely throw that rule out the window.

Do not wear a square and tie "set." Your square and tie should complement each other, not be of an identical pattern. Why? This makes you look cheap and like a poor dresser who needs to buy things in sets to be able to match.

A pocket square is not a handkerchief. Most handkerchiefs are larger and more difficult to fold into a breast pocket. In a pinch, they can be used as a pocket square. Do feel free to carry a handkerchief as a backup or for utilitarian purposes: ideally, to wipe prints off your Beretta or to offer to a sobbing damsel.

My favorite silk square fold is what the site calls a "Puff and Point." I like its casual, elegantly messy appearance.

With linen squares, I use the "TV Fold" or the more commonly known "Presidential." It's an understated, crisp look. Too many points strikes me as something one wears in a blazer while taking lunch at your local yachting club, and a single point seems but this isn't really based on anything concrete. Feel free to experiment.

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Wednesday, May 25, 2005

This is insane

A case study for how not to dress, ever. Or how to act, for that matter. Especially when you're being INTERVIEWED. From the Look Book in New York Magazine.




What are you wearing today?
My sunglasses are Prada. The track suit’s Armani.

It says Puma.
It’s Armani.


You have to read the full thing.

And people wonder why I gag when they ask if I'll ever move to Queens, even if "it's so much cheaper than Manhattan!"

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My Picks from BillHallman.net: Diesel, J. Lindeberg, Drifter

Those of you in the know will remember that I shop online obsessively, if not compulsively. I'm always looking for new finds and new stores. Yesterday, I stumbled on BillHallman.net, and I'm pleased with the results. Here are my picks.


Drifter light grey men's T-shirt



Diesel Suede belt with denim back strip-metal end clasps



Diesel brown cloth belt with black stitching and metal clasp/loopholes



J. Lindeberg Leather Metallic Belt



Diesel
Leather Black Stripe Belt


Yeah, normally, I wouldn't post so much Diesel here. But at least I haven't picked out anything advertising the brand name to a nauseatingly excessive amount, a la G Star, Evisu, Armani Exchange, etc. etc. etc.

In addition to G Star, Evisu, and the above, Hallman also carries Penguin, Modern Amusement, A+Dam, Andrea Palombini, Scott Langton, Steven Alan, Travota, and Project E. Oh, I also like this Andrea Palombini linen shirt -- great for summer.



By the way, BillHallman also stocks jeans -- Diesel, Meltin' Pot, Paper Denim and Cloth, Earnest Sewn and Nomad Tribe. I wouldn't buy premium denim online unless you really, really know denim and the size you are in a particular brand and product line. Or, unless you're a glutton for punishment or a serious risk-taker. Actually, I've been thinking a lot about the state of denim lately, and we might see a column coming out on the subject soon, if I'm in the mood.

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Friday, May 13, 2005

Site of the Moment: The Chap Magazine

A recurring feature on Stylezilla: Site of the Moment!

This Moment's site: The Chap Magazine. I'll let it explain its raison d'etre:

It doesn't take long for the modern gent to realise that Britain's high streets have very little to offer him, unless he is considering disguising himself as a teenager in order to gain reductions on visits to the cinema. Since most adults seem content to browse through racks of overpriced nylon sportswear imported from Indochina, thus the scarcity of quality goods such as silk cravats and swagger sticks begins to resemble a national famine.


British yes, but anachronistically so.

http://thechapmagazine.com/index.html

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Thomas Pink "Traveller"

Much has been said, though not by me, about the Thomas Pink Traveller [sic] shirt. Features of this remarkable two-fold cotton garment include a special finish to reduce creasing, a hidden inside breast pocket to conceal a passport and a secret pocked built into the cuff to conceal a credit card.





Alas the state of foreign travel for Americans. Reviled by much of the world, we're evidently forced to keep our credit cards hidden in our cuffs. To me, the shirt doesn't look especially great. But throw on a sports jacket, or, hell, a safari jacket, and you'll up your coolness quotient while traveling (even if through unfriendly territories).

The Traveller is available in solid white, blue, pink (my choice) and bengal stripe, in button cuff (and button-down collar) or french cuffs (spread).

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Tuesday, May 03, 2005

Celebrity Style

I try not to do this too often, but I'm going to talk about celebrities today. Yes, it's all because of last night's Costume Institute Party of the Year. Let's see who's dressing well -- and whose looks you can steal. And, just for the hell of it, we'll do some mocking of people who should know better. Let's go!



Liev Schreiber and Elijah Wood, looking cool in Dior Homme tuxes.



Jake Gyllenhaal looking even cooler, yet more traditional, in Ralph Lauren.



Ditto Hayden Christensen, also in Dior Homme. Someone forgot Hayden's tie, though.



Russell Simmons seems to have similarly skipped the tie, but also opted to retain his usual baseball cap. Manolo Blahnik seems perturbed.



Puffy looking dapper in a relatively low-key suit. His own label?



Andre 3000, evidently catering the event. White tux jackets are pretty damn near impossible to pull off without looking like the help. Alas, even for celebs. Points for the boutonniere, though.



Jimmy Fallon, looking like a doofus.



Michael Kors. Sharp! (And with Jessica Simpson, the season's newest accessory.)



Designer extraordinaire Tom Ford, pulling off an accessory trifecta: pocket square, boutonniere and Gucci sunglasses. I do wish he'd wear different sunglasses occasionally, if only to show us which other styles are cool.



Funky fashion robot Karl Lagerfeld. His hands are actually made of metal, like Dr. No.



Zac Posen, doing the reverse-Prisoner thing (it's Alexander McQueen).



Marc Jacobs. He's been looking more and more like a serial killer for the past several years, and that's not a good thing. He does seem to have bathed, though, which is a marked improvement over how he normally appears in public.

Pix from style.com

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Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Helmut Lang is The Man

Just browsing through Austrian minimalist designer Helmut Lang's accessory collection (collection hommes accessories spring/summer 2005) and have come to the conclusion that he is, indeed, The Man. We knew he was The Man when it came to edgy, futuristic suits. But he's also The Man in accessories. Have a look.



Ring Belt with Clip Closure in Black Box Calf Leather



Motif Bracelet in Grey Resin



Fringe Rope Key Clip in Sterling Silver



Travel Bag in Silver Metallic Leather



Rope Belt with Eyelet Clip Closure in Natural Cotton Jersey



6 Cord Key Clip in PVC



3 Row Rope Bracelet in White Cotton Jersey

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Thursday, April 14, 2005

How I Could Just Kill a Man for a Verner Panton Pocket Square



Maybe it's because I've been watching so much of The Prisoner lately, but I am feeling the dire need for some mod.

Specifically, I need a Verner Panton "Geometri" pocket square. But in what's got to be one of the fashion world's greatest misses, there doesn't seem to be such a thing in existence! I've scoured the Internet, to no avail.

What is the Geometri pattern? It's only the BEST pattern to emerge from the entire decade of the 1960's. Don't try to argue with me.

Panton created the pattern (officially known as "Geometri 1," featuring a distinctive 4/2/1 circle design) in 1960 for Unika Vaev in Denmark; it was first shown a year later and won the International Design Award in the U.S. in 1963. New York's Michael Maraham now owns the design, and has re-issued it in purple and red casts.

In moderation, the original (and its colored re-issues) are a helluva lot more attractive than the other bold, signature patterns we've been seeing on women's (and men's) accessories during the past several years. (Read: Louis Vuitton, Burberry, you name it.)

I can't believe that the Geometri pattern didn't make its way into women's handbags and such too. Am I the only one who sees what it could have become? First, it would start small -- before blowing up among chic Asian babies, getting carried in a handful of trendy, perhaps featured on an annoying television show targeted at bloated, single, twenty-something bridge-and-tunnel women. Then, Barneys begins carrying the bag, and it enjoys six months of justly deserved fame.

This is before the inevitable backlash sets in, however, with Canal Street knockoffs being lugged into the city by those same bloated B&Ters, and with women in the Midwest momentarily abandoning their zombie-like Uggs fetish (they're still in the midst of the FIRST Uggs blow-up, which you and I remember happening, what, two years ago?) to hop on the latest bandwagon -- this cool, new bag that was in that TV show "everyone" watches.

Since none of this came to pass, it also means it's hard as hell to find a Geometri pattern in anything but a rug or lampshade. Ugh. Try fitting one of those into your breast pocket. I can tell you right now, it won't.



I managed to find a Geometri money clip for my sister after some time. There are Geometri pens, Geometri pillows, Geometri chairs, Geometri cufflinks (which are probably a little too mod for use today,) a Geometri business card case, and Geomeri totes

But there's still no damn Verner Panton Geometri pocket square for men. The closest thing we've got is a Gucci pattern (you can see it peeking out of pockets in some of the pictures from yesterday.)

Here's where you come in. Internet, get on it! FIND ME MY POCKET SQUARE!

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Wednesday, April 13, 2005

Tom Ford Returning... to Menswear?

This sounds too good to be true. Ford is apparently moving back into fashion (perhaps the Hollywood thing isn't working out) and even though he'll be starting initially with women's cosmetics, this story suggests his first fashion line might be for men. Hot damn!

A fashion collection, though, is likely to come in the future. Ford warned: "Maybe it's not going to be women's, at least not at first, and maybe it's not going to be runway shows."

Ford's menswear lines for Yves St. Laurent and Gucci combined the sexy and the luxurious.







Pix from MetroNewYork.com

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Wednesday, March 23, 2005

Stylish Shoes, Cheep!

Ridiculously awesome shoes for practically a song at Avventura.


Donald J Pliner Jeffrey - Narrow Toe Calfskin Slip-On Shoe

Awesome slip-ons -- and I hate slip-ons!


Avventura Antiqued Calfskin Hi-Top Lace Up Shoe

These would fit even me, and my big feet. And they look fantastic -- and they're on sale!

Enjoy.

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Tuesday, March 22, 2005

Kenneth Cole is Too Busy Saving the World to Restock Items for Your Consumery Ass

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Last Chance to Look Preppy! (Not Really)

If you're into the preppy look (and who's to say, you might be) or if you're just a scavenger for great deals, check out the Ralph Lauren Polo.com Last Chance Sale. Prepsters, go nuts, but for the rest of us, here are a few choice picks from the Men's Sale. Sizes are limited.




POLO RALPH LAUREN Congressman Pinstriped Suit



PURPLE LABEL Multistripe Asser Shirt



PURPLE LABEL Luxury Cotton Fleece Pant



POLO RALPH LAUREN Prospect Chino Pant



POLO RALPH LAUREN Cashmere V-Neck Sweater



POLO RALPH LAUREN Handknit Ragg T-Neck Sweater

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Friday, March 18, 2005

Great Miu Miu Suit



Awesome. Miu Miu isn't just Prada's weak, goofy, and fairly insipid younger sibling. It's actually got some style all its own. Check out this suit!

Gray Miu Miu suit, $951. At Miu Miu stores. Burberry Prorsum white shirt, $310. At selected Burberry stores. Prada hat. Vintage tie and pocket square, stylist's own.


Shamelessly cribbed from the NYT Style Magazine.

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Monday, March 14, 2005

Top Men's Collections and Looks You Can Use

DNR has ranked the top men's fall 2005 collections. It's generally a decent breakdown. But of course, I've got plenty to say about it. (Keep scrolling all the way to the bottom -- I know the pictures are huge.)

Dolce & Gabbana is at the top, and why not? "Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana proved yet again that sex sells -- especially on the runway."



NY Metro

#2: Raf Simons, who has been busy designing for the future -- sometime circa Blade Runner.



This is not for you. Raf is experimenting with the oversized, the baggy, and the high-waisted. Look, but don't touch.

#4: Dior. Meanwhile, Hedi Slimane has gone back in time to the 70s -- and it is AWESOME.







#4 Emporio Armani. The new look rocks -- think "tailored jackets" -- even if no one seems to realize that it looks a lot like Tom Ford's last collections for Gucci.








This is a great look:


#6 Costume National. Weird Russian thing going on. No, trust me, this is weird.




#8 Louis Vuitton. DNR correctly picks up on the Russian influence here, too. (What the hell is going on?) Again, though, no one seems to notice the suits and blazers channeling Gucci. It's the same look! Does no one notice this? I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!







men.style.com

#10 Kris Van Assche. Ignoring the fact that the runway show is creepily evocative of Kevin Federline (fedoras, v-neck t-shirts, unshaveness) the line actually looks like something you could wear. Of course, it helps if you're an underweight male model. Or, I guess, a backup dancer.

www.krisvanassche.com
Discussion room chat on Fashion Spot about KVA.

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Monday, February 14, 2005

Joseph Abboud: He Came to Rock.

So, the real story, as I see it of this most recent Fashion Week was Joseph Abboud.

I mean, the man has made a reputation for creating, ahem, rather plain, solid, dependable menswear. Nothing extreme, nothing too risky, nothing you'd actually be able to identify as a Joseph Abboud.

No so any more. I couldn't believe what I was seeing on the runway.

I couldn't decide what to call this. Stock Broker Hobo? Boardroom Boho? Pinstripe Punk? Look at those jackets! Check out those accessories! Clearly, this was new territory for Abboud. Avant-garde. Young. Totally badass. And, yeah, completely unwearable (except for the models, rock stars, and fashion eccentrics in the audience.)










Pix from New York MagazineFor what it's worth, DNR called the look "gothic bling-bling." That cracked me up.

Later, on Full Frontal Fashion, the man himself revealed that his models were all wearing his jackets inside out. Hmm. They still looked good, mind you -- and of course, the way we all will be buying them will look a helluva lot different than they did on the runway (that is, inside-in.)

This is a good thing, because what I saw at the Abboud show is just not something that you'd be able to wear to the office. Or to a date. Or, anywhere, really, unless you're going for that model-rocker-eccentric thing.

Nevertheless, the fashion as displayed at the show looked nothing less than awesome, and it's something you should know about. One has to wonder, though, what's going to happen with regard to Joseph Abboud's sales -- after all, the label doesn't have a reputation for being hip and young.

Abboud later told DNR: "You have to look at it as theater; it's been five years since we last showed and we needed to make a statement."

I'll say. Key takeaways from the Abboud show:

* Mixing business (pinstripes) and big silver accessories (the Abboud show used biker chains, big crosses, rings, bracelets, etc.) is still a killer look for a night on the town. Just wear your jacket the way it was meant to be worn -- with the liner on the inside -- and keep your accessories tasteful.

* You still don't ever need to push up the sleeves on your suit jacket.

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Tuesday, February 08, 2005

Get your tag on

It's no surprise that military design has influenced fashion throughout the ages. I won't blab about that now, but instead, I'll just say: These are awesome accessories.


You can buy them at BASE.

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Thursday, January 20, 2005

I Set the Experts Straight: Looks for Spring

Conde Nast-owned Style.com's Men site launched this week, and about time, too. Much of it is culled from GC, so that's good if you're not a subscriber. If you are, then you're seeing it again. (At least it beats seeing Esquire again, huh?) They have a lot of information here, much of it trending toward the haute. And the idiotic. Luckily, that's where Stylezilla comes in. I sort through the crap so you don't have to.

One of the key features of the site is a look at Top Ten Spring Fashions for Men. Here's what works, what doesn't, and what shows that someone over at Style.com just wasn't thinking.

A Look You Can Use:


From Givenchy Men

Looks You Can Lose:


Ugh! This wince brought to you by Burberry Prorsum. Other misses:



The pink belt makes you look like an idiot. Go with black and you won't get beaten for trying to retread a tired old hipster look. The white getup on the right is just not wearable by anyone who lives in this decade and isn't on safari or stranded in a desert.

Nevertheless, here are a few more cool dress ideas from elsewhere on their site:




Valentino Men. Still my favorite.


(Wear browns carefully -- they can make you look like a sad sack if done poorly. Be careful how you match your brown suit. Here, we see it done correctly, by Versace.)

Two other looks courtesy of Style.com. I just threw these in here for laughs. Dress like this at your peril.


I'm speechless about the fellow on the left. The guy on the right looks like the anti-Prisoner. Blah.

Link: men.style.com

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Wednesday, January 19, 2005

Blogs of Style

While you’re waiting for Stylezilla to be updated with anything of substance -- which, considering the subject material, is somewhat ironic -- why not check out some of my favorite blogs? Here ar e two good ones. But first, a caveat.

They’re not strictly men’s fashion blogs -- and they do trend toward the idiotic sneaker-t-shirt-and-neighborhoodie hipster look -- they do still carry links to a lot of good stuff for us guys. Check em out.. They’re good with accessories, home decor, and other items of interest… but do so with some caution. The world doesn’t need another idiot hipster clone channeling the Beastie Boys or the Strokes.

Josh Spear

Josh Rubin

No, they’re not related. Just try to get past the whole “I’m an arbiter of cool” thing. You’ll be happy with all the cool crap they do cover.




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Wednesday, December 29, 2004

Style in Your Wallet

Every once in a while, I find products that I absolutely fall in love with. Here's the latest:

Touch of Ginger's 316 Wallet Essentials.

Tons of stuff that today's man-about-town needs -- in a convenient, wallet-sized form factor.

Get a load of this... Emergency cufflinks-on-a-card.


Here's how they look in action:

Not bad, eh? Especially for £7.50.

A second card offers shirt accessories -- collar stays and emergency buttons.


And, of course, no modern man's emergency style kit would be complete without a comb and a mirror.

I'm hooked.

Link: Touch of Ginger

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Tuesday, December 07, 2004

Buy This For Me! OR A Stylezilla Guide to Holiday Gift Giving, Pt. 1: Cashmere

Men never see to know what to get the significant others in their lives for the holidays, and I for one place the blame squarely on the shoulders of the others.

But you, dear readers, are above all that. This is why we present Stylezilla's Guide to Holiday Gift Giving. It's really all about making it convenient -- for them. To buy you stuff. Doing so eliminates all the mess of getting something wretched and the broken hearts sure to result. In each segment, I'll be focusing on quick-and-easy purchases your significant others can make on your behalf.

I've done most of the legwork. Now the rest is up to you. Print out these pages and leave 'em for your mark, er, gift-giving loved one to "find." A little Post-It note saying "Oh, but if I only had the money to buy one of these myself!" completes the effect. You might even want to attach a second Post-It note with your correct size.

In today's edition, Macy's (of all places -- just bear with me) is offering discounts on its men's cashmere. That's good. It's not too expensive, it's always wearable, and (most importantly) makes a good gift. For you. To that end, I've gone through the mess and picked out some of the best items for you. You can even use the pictures as guides showing you how to wear them (once someone else buys them for you).

Cheers.






Tasso Elba Cashmere Rib Crewneck Sweater

Tasso Elba Cashmere Jersey Turtleneck Sweater

Club Room Cashmere V-Neck Sweater

Tasso Elba Cashmere Vest

Alfani Cashmere Blazer
-- nice.

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Thursday, November 11, 2004

Reader Question: Short Sleeves and Ties

Loyal reader Steve writes:

Is it proper for a professional male to wear a suit with a short-sleeved dress shirt and tie rather than a long-sleeved shirt?

Your answer, Steve, is no.

Actually -- and don't let anyone know that I told you this -- you may, MAY get away with this in a DIRE FASHION EMERGENCY ONLY if no one will EVER know that you're wearing a short-sleeved dress shirt under your jacket. You'll have to keep your jacket on the entire time, and that might prove awkward -- unless you're a network anchor, most men like to remove their jackets while sitting, for instance.

If you want the official line, it's that wearing a short-sleeved "dress" shirt with a tie for any reason is a serious no-no, in a number of ways. Not the least of which is that it makes you look like an IBM engineer from 1960 (which seems, troublingly, to be something of a recurring problem among this site's readership.)

If you're drawn to short-sleeved "dress" shirts (note the derisive use of quotation marks -- they're quite intentional here) to keep you cooler, consider that wearing proper long-sleeved dress shirts won't make you that much warmer -- you're still wearing a jacket over it all, remember? And you can roll your sleeves. More importantly, appropriate fabrics will keep you cool in summer and warm in winter. Ever wondered how indiginous desert peoples keep from frying alive under hoods and robes? It's because they know the value of fabrics that breathe. Think linen.

Short-sleeved "dress" shirts themselves are a bit of a pitfall for many folks. If you're wearing short-sleeved "dress" shirts simply, like George Leigh Mallory, because they're there, then, my friend, you need to reconsider your wardrobe. Short-sleeved dress shirts can look OK in the following cases: Totally obscured (as above;) casual (with jeans or cargo pants;) or when you live and work in the tropics.

Here's your executive-level takeaway from all this: Avoid short-sleeved dress shirts in business, and avoid using them with ties unless NO ONE will notice and you have no other option.


These guys might have been pioneers in the computer industry, but they were also victimized by fashion. Don't let this happen to you!

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Friday, November 05, 2004

Trunk Shows at Barneys

Barney's is having a slew of trunk shows and demonstrations tomorrow (Nov. 6) in its "Artisan Day" celebration in Manhattan. On the Men's Main Floor will be trunk shows from Lorenzini, showing off dress shirts; Suzanne Felsen's cufflinks; and one of my favorite brands, Ruffian, doing the neckwear thing. Check it out if you're in the city.

What's a trunk show? Traditionally, it's when a designer schleps all of their latest designs (in a trunk) over to a store to show off what's new -- and to give consumers and buyers a chance to get a hold of merchandise early, and which might normally be available through the usual channels. They don't really use trunks anymore, but the term remains, anachronistic though it may be.

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Thursday, October 28, 2004

Seeeecret Shopping at Kenneth Cole

Just got word of a secret sale on menswear at Kenneth Cole. Email me for details (use the form below!)

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Wednesday, October 27, 2004

Yoox Fall Promo, Free Shipping (with this code)

Yoox.com is having itsself a Fall Promotion sale, which for you means tons of reductions across all its menswear lines. I'm especially digging the trousers by Jil Sander ($178) and Fake London Genius ($128). There are also tons of great-looking suits under $500.

From now 'til Halloween, there's free shipping, too. Use this code at checkout: trickortreat@yoox

Blazer from Versace Versus:


Also, check out these blazers from Yves St. Laurent. Even if you can't afford them (even after 20% off), take a look at the lapel and fabric styles, the cut, and the overall look -- and find a blazer out there that looks like them. Wear them with blue or gray jeans for a casual look, or gray trousers for work.

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Friday, October 22, 2004

Get Texturized!

I know I've written about this topic before, but I was just thinking about how much I love my black satin velvet blazer. It's truly unreal how many girls seem to want to touch it when I'm out. And you can achieve the same effect -- for many of you, a good thing.

Check out how a master pulls it off:


The secret is texture -- what a good deal of this season's lines has really been all about. You can wear similar colors but keep things from feeling too homogenized by mixing up the textures -- today, for instance, I'm wearing mostly black, although I'm also wearing a pinstriped shirt (cotton, flat-feeling), suit pants (slightly lighter, adding a bit of sheen) and, of course, the blazer, replete in its velvety goodness.

Yoox has a few great ones on sale. Check out this Jil Sander blazer. (You'll have to Search for it at the site.)

Or you can use texture to spruce up what might normally be a dull outfit. Sweaters, for instance, are perfect ways to add texture. Pick good ones that "pop" -- that are appealing both to the eye and hand.

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Thursday, October 21, 2004

Things at Urban Outfitters That Don't Suck OR I Read these Crappy Catalogs So You Don't Have To

I was flipping through the Urban Outfitters catalog last night and happened upon, yes, a handful of items that don't suck.

Typically, I don't like to recommend Urban Outfitters because their styles tend toward the common, the trite, the seriously "over" in terms of men's fashion. But there are a few gems -- all of which are pretty cheap, to boot.

Use these to patch holes in your winter/spring wardrobe, or class things up a bit.

Velvet Blazer in Green

A little edgier... Triple 5 Soul Mockneck Blazer

Uncut Cord Blazer in Black and Maroon

A decent-looking dress shirt (never mind that they call it "button-down" -- it's not) in lavender, pink and dark blue.

Don't go crazy with layering them like these wannabe hipsters. These are dress shirts, and aren't really made to accommodate massive under layers. Try a blazer or sweater over 'em instead.

Acrylic/wool V-Neck sweaters (I'd recommend the brown, black and charcoal colors.)

Try under a blazer for an extra-sharp look. The brown, olive and burgundy look very collegiate, if that's your thing.

A good-looking brown belt for your jeans.
Don't wear it with black shoes!

Felony Pinstripe Blazer in black and lavender.


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Friday, October 15, 2004

Club Monaco and More Men's Fashion Deals

To promote their new fall line, Club Monaco is offering a "special gift" for purchases over $50. Check it out -- good for hip sweaters and ties -- slick but also highly wearable-at-work, alone or under suits.

Also Karmaloop is offering 10% off on jackets. Note that Karmaloop isn't for everyone -- it's very urban/hipsterish. But you can certainly make some good finds for casual wear. Or, if you're into DJs and stuff, it's right up your alley. Check out this Spiewak jacket.

Urban Outfitters is also having a sale that lasts through midnight, Oct. 17. 25% off sale prices. Some good deals there, but promise me that you won't buy any of those idiotic t-shirts with "witty" slogans or that look like they were filtched from your summer camp, ok? Those are the very epitome of passe.

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Wednesday, October 13, 2004

The Skinny on Tie Widths OR Don't Wear Skinny Neckties Unless You Are in a Successful Band and Can Afford to Look Idiotic

Reader Terry writes asking about up-to-date tie widths. And Lo! I answer.

Terry, traditional men's neckties are in the neighborhood of 3.5 to 4 inches wide. But thanks in no small part to the rise of hipster fashion -- think bands like The Strokes here -- we've seen a return to skinnier ties. We're talking an inch in width, two at the most.

Should you be wearing skinny ties?

Here's a general rule to follow here: Most skinny neckties suck.

All other things being equal (material, design, pattern, etc.,) a skinny tie will look worse than a full-width tie almost every time. Skinny neckties work most often for but two categories of people: musicians and runway models. Unless you fall into one of those categories, tread carefully. Note that both these types trend toward the seriously thin.

Accordingly, then, here's the problem with skinny ties: They're too damn skinny. Unless you're a candidate for the heroin chic look, most skinny neckties will make you appear comically oafish. When done wrong, a skinny tie can look like a teeny little rope hanging around your neck, or that you dressed in the dark in your kid's room and are now wearing one of their miniature clip-ons. Frankly, the best you can hope for with a skinny necktie is to evoke an IBM salesman, circa 1957.

And by this, I mean that a skinny necktie can get lost on your shirt, making it seem that either your body is too big and/or fat. There's a reason that hipster-types are skinny.



Other problems: Skinny ties are a fad. To me, a skinny tie says that you've consciously selected a nontraditional necktie style to make a point. Yet whatever message you're attempting to convey, the message people actually pick up on is this: "I'm a musician, a runway model, a hipster wannabe, or a fan of Interpol -- and I'm a trite loser and my fashion is PLAYED OUT."

Even some astute British folks have picked up on the problem with these overused pieces of neckwear.

"Seemingly the Sparks/ Nazi SS officer/ 1950’s fop look is taking off in America because I have never quite seen such a confusingly uncool selection of ties and fringes in all my living days."

Don't get me wrong: Some skinny neckties look good. But it's harder to find skinnies that work. I found a couple good ones at Club Monaco recently, and I even wore one to a wedding.

Stick to regimental ties (you know ... diagonally striped.) Avoid anything too plain (especially solids -- nothing says "I play keytar in an 80s cover band" like a skinny, solid silver tie. It's one step below a piano key tie.)

Avoid wearing skinny ties in serious business or with expensive suits. It seems juvenile and out of place.

If you are wearing a skinny necktie, try to keep your jacket on. It will minimize the problem of having a low tie-to-shirt ratio and will make you look less fat.

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Monday, October 11, 2004

Brown Sound Tees

I don't spend a lot of time talking about T-shirts here, but I've been a fan of Brown Sound's retro-looking tees. You can buy from their current collection on Guyshop.com.

I loved their Spring/Summer collection, but their Autumn/Winter collection is pretty hot, too. I like that most of their T-shirts avoid looking mass-market-y (see Urban Outfitters) -- they generally shy away from little sayings or "70s chic" in favor of well, generally weird, complex designs that hearken back to the heady days of 60s psychedelica. Check em out.

Tips: Perfect with jeans, of course, but throw on a colored tee and wear it with a suit or sportjacket for a slick, casual look.

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Tuesday, October 05, 2004

Bespoke Shirt Tour: NYC, Boston, DC

A note from Stylezilla friend Joe prompted me to direct you all to Jermyn Street shirtmakers New and Lingwood. The company's bespoke shirtmaker is coming this month to the U.S.'s East Coast on a tour -- you can get measured and the fellow will fit you with a custom shirt. Keen! Details here.

Very decent-looking shirts, and the price isn't bad at all for bespoke. With a little luck, they're coming to a city near you. Hurry and make an appointment.

Jermyn Street, for those who don't know, is widely regarded as THE place in London for trendy, high-quality shirts. It's like Saville Row, only not for suits. Get it?

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Wednesday, September 29, 2004

Fear and Loathing in Bloomingdale's Menswear: Part Two

Ted Baker: Wow. Here's a British designer who rocks, but not in a goofy, alterna-rock, Strokes-y kind of way. No, these are clothes that rockers actually wear when they're out on the town -- and I'm not talking about the keyboard player in the back, behind the drum kit. This is frontman stuff.

It follows then, that Ted Baker's area in Bloomingdales looks something like a glowing electric circus. That works just fine, since his clothes are so theatrical. Almost impractically so: I can't imagine wearing most of this stuff during the daytime, or even in a well-lit bar, but that's only because they're so radical. Lots of time is spent on feeling the textures of shirts and jackets here. There's a magnificent black corduroy jacket here -- with hints of bright green, under the collar, for instance -- and a badass purple velvet jacket with silver pinstripes.

Ted Baker is not for everyone, but is worth a long look. And if you've got some extra spending money, are in the mood for slick, bombastic "night out" wear, and are a rock star (this is getting to be a very small population of Stylezilla's readership) you'd do well picking up some Ted Baker.

Calvin Klein: About as far away from Ted Baker as you can get in the same store, Calvin Klein offers reliable genericness in the lower-end collections. Think "World-o-Khaki." That's sad because Calvin Klein Jeans has some interesting things happening -- I like the jeans themselves, and you can find a number of pretty cool-looking casual shirts in that line. Moving up the price scale, the higher-end Calvin Klein Collection has some classy, adventurous designs, too.

I guess this isn't surprising, though. Since the man himself left the helm, Calvin Klein has been weak overall -- though all indications point to the label's Spring 2005 Collection (for women, alas) getting back up to speed. Let's hope that filters over into menswear, then down to the label's more mid-range lines.

DKNY: Lots of blank-feeling, J.C. Penny-esque dress shirts. A variety of bland colors, matching nothing particularly well. Are they even trying? Even the salespeople seem depressed. I wonder seriously what the mood is like in the real DNKY store (across the street). Suicidal, perhaps.

D&G: New to the New York Bloomingdale's. A couple of decent-looking shirts. Some frightening "high-fashion" sweaters, which aren't wearable by anyone wishing to be taken seriously at work or out socializing. All in all, the collection is probably good for Armani Exchange graduates.

Ben Sherman: Ugh. Painfully British. You know my feelings on this label. Wretched, unmatching, gaudy patterns abound. Egad, this area is HUGE! Ben Sherman's area seems to have assimilated most of the space previously occupied by French Connection, which is basically now just resigned to a single rack. What a waste.

Burberry: On the other hand, here's some great-looking stuff. Overpriced? Only slightly. I'd take the suits, most definitely. They're sharp, and the cut is tailored -- slender and classy. It's British without being annoying and mod -- amazing. Likewise, Burberry's dress shirts are also looking really sharp. I'm blasé about the sweaters. Avoid that novacheck!

Nautica: I mostly skipped this one, but did see a decent black corduroy jacket. Pretty cool-looking, but go with Hugo Boss instead.

Joseph Abboud: After all that Britishness, it felt good to be surrounded by a quiet, reliably boring label. Perhaps I'm being too hard. Abboud is good for dress basics. And, I ought to add, value: in the suits department, I found that the best suit under $700 was an Abboud.

Kenneth Cole: should stick to shoes.

Seriously. I've maintained for several seasons that KC has lost his friggin' mind. The Kenneth Cole Reaction stuff looks far better. It's more wearable, less clubby and generally weird-looking. The man gets credit for the amount of originality he's instilled at the price point for the flagship Kenneth Cole label, but still -- some of this stuff just doesn't look good, plain and simple.

And you know, that's not saying much, since Reaction's stuff only truly shines in its ads. I swung by the KC Reaction store after Bloomingdale's, and aside from some disconcertingly helpful salespeople, I found little that sparked my attention. Basic stuff, a step up in urban classiness from Michael Kors' Michael.

So, consider KC for shoes. Also, I like their accessories, which are pretty much limited to cufflinks and silver bracelets.

Links: Again, Bloomingdales.com doesn't have a men's section, so try Shoes.comfor Kenneth Cole shoes.

Bluefly.com is good for DNKY (some of their better, earlier collections) as well as Abboud, and others.

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Monday, September 27, 2004

Lord & Taylor Sale and 10-Second Review

Starting Wednesday and lasting through Saturday, Lord & Taylor is having a secret "friends and family" type in-store sale.

Go here for a printable coupon. I'm not sure whether I was supposed to pass it on, so if they ask, keep where you got it a secret.

I actually dropped by my local L&T just the other day, and to my surprise, found a bunch of really great casual looks. Slick-looking black sports jackets, for instance. And a good supply of sharp ties and solid silk pocket squares. (Yes, pocket squares. You should own a handful, at least.) Great prices, too, which combined with the sort of spartan aesthetic of my local Lord & Taylor makes the store feel something like a discount chain. But it's not.

I did have a hell of a time finding suits in my size (which you wouldn't think would be a problem) but they still deserve a look simply for the truckload of suits they carry from Michael Kors' Michael line (which seems to fare better as far as suits go, rather than in other men's apparel.)

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Friday, September 24, 2004

Fear and Loathing in Bloomingdale's Menswear: Notes on What to Buy and Avoid

*Part One*

Just for you, dear readers, I took several hours out of my busy schedule last night to browse through the menswear department in Bloomingdale's midtown New York headquarters. I'm looking for things you can buy without breaking the bank, that you can wear to work or, alternatively, out for a classy night on the town, and not be ashamed to own two seasons for now. A tall order, as it turns out.

Why am I even in Bloomie's? In the fashion ecosystem, department stores are a necessary evil because they gather (ostensibly) the best and most popular (read: sellable) apparel from a variety of designers. Lumping it all together makes it easier for folks to shop.

OK. We're examining the mid-tier menswear department, so I'll leave out Canali, Zegna, Armani, and their friends for another time). Also, except where noted, I'm not including anything I found from the racks-o-suits.

Overall -- and as usual -- I was disappointed in the results. Nearly every designer still persists in hawking frightening, nearly impossible-to-look-good-in shirts in the most hideous of patterns. Yet, this season seems to mark a change -- possibly in reaction to those crazy patterns, to flashy suits, to frenetic mod styles (AKA "Ben Shermanization") and other similarly galling trends. That change? For better or worse, it's a move toward THE BLAND. More and more designers seem to be simultaneously retreating from adventurous (albeit, eye-assaulting) designs into vague, generally lackluster men's apparel.

My notes:

Michael Kors' Michael: The designer's low-end line looks just that -- low-end. Plain. Mediocre. Maybe you can find some basics here -- a basic-looking sweater, for instance. Reminds me of something you'd find in a store like K-Mart, except with better construction. Depending on the size of the Michael installation, it can be a good place to steal a quick nap before moving on.

Theory: You know I love this brand. One reason is that it sucks less these days than other guys. Some cool shirts, and a bunch of really great black sport jackets. Too bad most of them don't have matching pants, because I'd love suits in some of these designs. Overall, the suits are OK.

Hugo Boss: What shines here is the outerwear. Hugo Boss has some truly terrific sports jackets in a variety of fabrics and colors. They're great feeling, well-made, good-looking and easily matched. Casual dress shirts -- not so much. Still too many over-striped affairs, with the best looking bland and the worst being positively headache-inducing (a problem not limited to Hugo Boss, of course.) Hugo Boss does carry some good-looking suits -- nothing terribly adventurous, except for a pretty cool black corduroy suit.

Polo: Like other big brands, Polo nails outerwear. Like Boss, Polo has some great sports coat in a number of colors. You can also find, yes, polo shirts here, ad infinium.

Hilfiger: With (ahem) the H Hilfiger line, we've still got that strange, awesome "rock and roll meets prep school" vibe going on. Think bright, in-your-face colors on suits and button-down dress shirts.

Now, don't get me wrong: The clothes look utterly fantastic. On mannequins. Admittedly, they've got great tailored cuts, great patterns, and awesome rockstar color ensembles, but they're not meant to be worn by people who aren't working in the entertainment industry. Put another way, most folks aren't David Bowie, and shouldn't try dressing like him.

Stay tuned for Part Two.

Links: Frustratingly, Bloomingdales.com doesn't have a men's section. Try www.yoox.us and Bluefly.com for discount Theory and Hugo Boss.

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Thursday, September 23, 2004

Designer sale


Awesome Gucci velvetnessHi gang. A heads-up on a new
Bluefly sale. They're having their Fall Designer Spotlight promotion, so you can get up to 65% off on big-name designers. For men, that means some of my favorites -- Paul Smith, Prada, Gucci and Paper, Denim and Cloth (not much Paper denim, but some of their other goodies.) Check out this sweet, sweet black velvet Gucci suit. It's mine, I tell you!!

Update: OK, the suit has been sold (to one of you reprobates, perhaps?) so I've replaced the picture above with one of a similarly sweet pea coat. Enjoy!

www.bluefly.com

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Wednesday, September 22, 2004

Velvet Blazers, PLUS a Look at the NYT Style Magazine

Good stuff from the NY Times Style Section (er, no, wait, make that "T: Style Magazine" -- ugh) this week -- an entire section on Men's fashion. Get thee to NYTimes.com.

For the short-of-attention, I'll sum it up for you. The classy-casual look is currently all about the black (or navy) velvet jacket.




As an aside, I've always been a big Valentino fan (though for a while there, I felt like the only one in my peer group.) I'm real happy to see it getting hot again, and the R.E.D. line is looking especially new and snappy. Too bad the man himself is teetering on retirement (he's in his early 70s now) -- and there's the question of who will step in. Note that Marzotto, Valentino's corporate owner, also owns Hugo Boss.

OK, back to the fashion. For a less urban or edgy look than a rich, velvety jacket, I recommend corduroy (in brown, too) rather than tweed, which has got to be THE talked-about look of the season. More on why I disagree in a future posting.

Other thoughts on T: Style Magazine (or is it called The New York Times Style Magazine -- what's the deal here? Couldn't they make up their minds on a title?)...

Not surprised to see Andre 3000 featured prominently. Hasn't he been in every Esquire since Esquire discovered Outkast (which would have been about the time "Hey Ya!" was released)? There has got to be other quirky, well-dressed black guy out there that mainstream media feels comfortable hyping into a household name as a fashion plate. I'm talking about guys besides Bentley, who, while one sharp, sharp dresser, is running the risk of wandering into self-caricature territory (becoming a fixture on MTV can do that -- just say no, Bentley!) Good news is that Andre 3000 has a menswear line coming out in the near future.

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Tuesday, September 21, 2004

Reader Question: Determining the Quality of a Dress Shirt

Loyal reader Tobias writes:

How can you tell how good the quality of a dress shirt is?

That's a good question, Tobias -- in spite of your lamentable grammar -- and a matter that's long vexed shoppers. How do you know what you're buying? How do you avoid getting ripped off?

Fortunately, sartorial sage Alan Flusser has the answer.

Detailed, frighteningly knowledgeable, and yes, quite fussy, Flusser in Style and the Man, goes on like a clear day on what you should be looking for in buying shirts. I'll give you the highlights here.


  • Feel the fabric. Typically, the softer and more luxurious, the better. High thread-count (say, 220) two-ply cotton feels like silk.
  • Look on the sleeve, near the cuff. Is there a buttonhole on the forearm (technically, on the sleeve placket)? Does the buttonhole go horizontally? (That is, does it run around the arm, rather than up and down?) If so, the shirt is high-quality.
  • For striped shirts, look at the shoulder. Does the pattern run off the top of the shoulder (the yoke) down the outside of the sleeve? If so, it's high-quality.
  • Look at the collar and cuffs. For most dress shirts, the stitching should be nearly invisible. "If you can clearly see each individual stitch sitting on top of the fabric, its manufacture is less costly," writes Flusser.
  • Look for removable collar stays. Those are a plus.
  • Buttons should be cross-stitched for strength, which requires extra cost.
  • Real pearl buttons are also key indicators of a shirt's quality.

    "If a sewing machine needle hits a plastic button, the button shatters; should that same needle strike a pearl button, the needle shatters. Authentic mother-of-pearl buttons, especially thicker ones, are incredible sensual to the hand and eye, as well as costing ten times the price of the typical plastic button."

Flusser is the man.

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Monday, September 20, 2004

Accessories 101

One of the biggest, ongoing trends in mass market men's fashion of late has been the attention put on finishing touches -- that is, accessories. You'll see this continuing in upcoming seasons, as well, so it's a good idea to invest now.

Adding a few accessories to your apparel can enhance or change your outfit's mood dramatically. A few bracelets can make a generic-looking t-shirt and jeans combination look unique, playful, and classy.

One reason accessories might work is because they suggest, subconsciously, that caring about bracelets, necklaces, cool belt buckles, and the like means that you actually spent some time putting your outfit together -- and conversely, that you didn't just roll out of bed and jump into the first thing you found on your floor (though that might be the case.) Without fail, great accessories make a great outfit even better.

If you're in the market for accessories, I'd try to avoid the sort of things that you'd find at an Abercrombie or Hot Topic -- think classier, silver or dark metal jewelry, not fratwear. Leather looks good in moderation -- lean toward black leather, and avoid Conan-sized wrist braces or hulking East Village-type punk rock spiked bracelets. They're out like a NJ governor. Instead, check out some of guyshop.com's silver jewelry offerings.

Tiebars. You'll need them with a suit (and, ahem, a tie) or risk looking a tad weird. Check out some of our Fashion Week coverage and you'll see -- the tie bar is back and is everywhere.

Cufflinks -- they're not stodgy anymore. Shirts with French cuffs and slick cufflinks work not only in the office, but still work wonders for a night on the town. Don't be afraid to mix dress shirts and denim, by the way -- wearing cufflinks and a great French cuffed shirt and designer jeans out on a Saturday night. You'll look sharp, and like you know it (without seeming like a pretentious jerk.)

So, get yourself some great, modern-looking cufflinks. I like Pink's selection:
Mens Cufflinks

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Friday, September 17, 2004

Stocking up for Winter

Fashion Week was all about spring, but that doesn't mean that you need to stop thinking about winter. In fact, in all the excitement, I entirely forgot about picking out some of the new sales going on for winter merchandise. www.bluefly.com is at it again, offering steep discounts (up to 65% off) on men's cashmere sweaters.
Shop here.

The discount (and Euro-esque) designer fashion site www.yoox.us also has some great deals on men's apparel for the season. Check out their outerwear -- some real steals from big-name designer labels like Versace, Jil Sander, and so on. But my favorites for seriously good-looking but not-too-outrageous men's fall coats and jackets are here -- hip outerwear by Alexandre Herchcovitch, Dries Van Noten, and Emporio Armani. Use Yoox's search engine to look for outerwear by those designers -- you will not be disappointed.

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Thursday, September 16, 2004

A Label You Should Own: Theory

Just a few words today on one of my favorite brands -- which also happens to be one of the most under-appreciated. The brand is Theory, and they rock in my book. Ever since I stumbled on them at Bloomingdale's a few years back, I've been hooked. They've keyed in on every trend -- western wear, stripes, bold color ... you name it. But they've always managed to do it with class.

Consider Theory for a couple reasons. For one thing, the designs are modern, yet classic at the same time -- so that you can wear them to work without feeling like you're auditioning for Zoolander II. The cuts are flattering, yet entirely wearable -- and the apparel itself isn't priced sky-high.

Also, Theory as a menswear label is far from being overexposed. In fact, when I first saw a Theory shirt, I thought it was Bloomingdale's house label -- it's so unassuming and modestly priced, yet totally great-looking. It's like Seven for All Mankind, back in the day (last year?) I've always considered it a plus for men to be well-dressed while not wearing what everyone else is.

OK, enough blabbing. Here are a couple of my picks from bluefly. Most of these are casual enough for wearing with jeans, or dressy enough for business casual attire. Go nuts!

Theory medium grey cotton button down 'Bruno' shirt
Theory medium grey cotton button down 'Bruno' shirt


Theory black nylon blend button front 'Camper' shirt
Theory black nylon blend button front 'Camper' shirt


Theory bright blue cotton embroidered crewneck 'Ediee / Embrod' short sleeve t-shirt
Theory bright blue cotton embroidered crewneck 'Ediee / Embrod' short sleeve t-shirt


Theory black with grey pinstripe wool 'Tomas Rally' wide leg pants
Theory black with grey pinstripe wool 'Tomas Rally' wide leg pants

Casual, yet sophisticated ... These pinstripe pants can be dressed up or down, and look perfect either way.

Theory blue, purple, white stretch cotton blend linear print long sleeve 'Klauis' sport shirt
Theory blue, purple, white stretch cotton blend linear print long sleeve 'Klauis' sport shirt


Theory beige cotton linear pattern long sleeve 'Andrew' sport shirt
Theory beige cotton linear pattern long sleeve 'Andrew' sport shirt


Theory grey alpaca cable knit turtleneck sweater
Theory grey alpaca cable knit turtleneck sweater


Theory honeycomb knit smoke grey alpaca wool long scarf with soft fringe
Theory honeycomb knit smoke grey alpaca wool long scarf with soft fringe

Stunning, vibrant & classic, all at once.

Theory blue fog fine ribbed silk blend 'Justin' long sleeve crew neck sweater
Theory blue fog fine ribbed silk blend 'Justin' long sleeve crew neck sweater



Theory black fine ribbed silk blend 'Justin' long sleeve crew neck sweater
Theory black fine ribbed silk blend 'Justin' long sleeve crew neck sweater



Theory black fine wool 'Amos' turtleneck sweater
Theory black fine wool 'Amos' turtleneck sweater

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Tuesday, September 14, 2004

On the Care and Feeding of Couture, or How NOT to Destroy Your Apparel

One of the crucial things to keep in mind about buying good clothes is how to maintain them. And despite what you might think, it's not by having them consistently dry-cleaned.

Why is that? Let's take a quick look at what happens when your fine designer men's apparel is put through a typical dry cleaning routine.

Clothes are placed in a large machine, similar to a household washing machine. Now, dry cleaning doesn't use water, but it does rely on a liquid solvent. That solvent is pumped continuously into the machine's rotating chamber. Continuously and forcefully -- the typical solvent is almost twice as heavy as water, and is often pumped through your clothes at a rate of about 1,500 gallons an hour. If a cycle lasts for eight minutes, the clothes would be doused during mechanical action with 200 gallons of solvent. (Thanks to HowStuffWorks.com for these last two stats.)

All the while, the clothes are also being worked over by baffles, which serve to agitate fabric and pound out stains.

After a session, the clothes are spun (like in the final cycle of a household washer) to remove the solvent. That's followed by a cycle that's not unlike your household clothes dryer -- clothes are heated to get the last bit of solvent out.

Ouch -- that's a lot of abuse for your fine designer apparel to take. Over not much time, the dry cleaning process can weaken seams and dull fabric. Eventually, your expensive (or expensive-seeming) finery will look like little more than crud.

How to minimize the damage? Well, for one thing, don't use the dry cleaner too often. And by too often, I mean more than monthly. That can even be pressing it -- take good care of your high-quality suits, and you should only have to get them dry cleaned annually.

Between trips to your dry cleaner, clean your couture by hand. That's right -- detergent and water. (Or get someone else to do it, naturally.) Hang to dry. For your most expensive suits, get out stains immediately with a bit of mild detergent and water applied directly to the stain.

For less-expensive clothing, you can wash them in household washing machines and hang to dry. Some cheaper fabrics can even be dried in dryers, but always check the labels before doing so. You still can't go wrong with hanging.

A caveat: Many often feel that darker-colored dress shirts should be dry cleaned rather than machine-washed, so as to prevent fading. Essentially, you're trading luster and construction to maintain color -- keep this in mind when buying dark shirts. They have a limited lifespan any way you cut it.

As for suits, have them professionally steamed and pressed regularly to keep them looking crisp. Having your other clothes professionally steamed also prolongs their longevity, since the iron can damage or dull fabric.

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Friday, September 10, 2004

More Looks from Fashion Week

NewYorkMetro has more looks you can snag from Olympus Fashion Week Spring 2005 in New York. Things are a bit slower since Day One in "wearable" menswear. But here are a few suggestions...

Tommy Hilfiger:




Cloak:


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Thursday, September 09, 2004

Looks You Can Use from Fashion Week

Hot off the runways -- some looks you can steal* from Day One of Olympus Fashion Week Spring 2005 in New York.


Kenneth Cole:



Perry Ellis:







Duckie Brown:



John Bartlett:





*That is, steal while employing good sense. "Emulate" might be a better word, since if you copy these looks too closely, you're liable to be arrested for indecent exposure.

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Wednesday, September 08, 2004

Fashion Week, Spring 2005: A User Manual

Fashion Week starts today in New York. What does it mean to you, the consumer, and how can you get something out of it?

First of all -- why you should care. At its most fundamental, Fashion Week is a marketplace. It connects buyers (from the major department stores) with sellers (fashion designers who want their clothes to be sold in those stores.) Buyers see the designers' collections, place orders for lines or individual items, and those clothes turn up in their stores in spring, where you, the shopper, buy them.

But that's changing, and Fashion Week (especially here in New York) is becoming less and less an industry thing. Instead, consumers are becoming more savvy and are able to check out the fashions firsthand -- thanks to coverage on cable (think Metro TV's Full Frontal Fashion coverage), daily newspapers, general interest magazines, and of course, specialty Web sites.

Now, shoppers are able to see for themselves which designers and collections they like -- and this, rather than what store buyers like -- is beginning to drive the market.


Runway shows are still important. But their role is changing — from a market to a marketing device, intended to affect consumers rather than retailers, and meant to generate excitement with the public through photographs, television footage and Web coverage. "A lot of it is, very frankly, for the press," Mr. Murray of Calvin Klein said.

More from the NYT on the changing role of runway shows in New York.


Of course, what's shown on the runway and available at high-end retailers isn't exactly what Joe and Jane Smith can afford to wear every day.

That's why Fashion Week is important for a second reason. In a larger sense, what's shown on the runways guides fashion trends even outside of couture. Changes in fabrics, cuts, you name it -- they're introduced on the runways and ultimately filter down to Target and K-Mart.

Watching the runways at Fashion Week can give you an idea of what's "in" for next season.

Finally, observing Fashion Week is important for a third reason, and that's as a source of ideas of how to dress. Granted, we can't all pull off some of the wilder looks we see on the runways. But they can help to inform our ideas of what to wear and how to dress.

For instance, look for pattern/color/fabric combinations that you can incorporate into your own wardrobe. Look for new ways that designers are using or playing with common elements -- how are they accessorizing their models? How are they re-envisioning older looks? Designers often love to play with the definition of casual clothes -- look for how you can dress up a casual look by emulating what you see on the runway.

Above all, keep an eye out for outfits that you like. You might not be able to afford that great look you saw at the Helmut Lang show, but you can put together an outfit that approximates it.

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Friday, September 03, 2004

Spring: Still Preppy

I'm not a huge fan of the neo-preppy look that's STILL hot right now, but it shows no signs of abating. From New York Magazine:

According to both Ward and Jim Moore, creative director of GQ, the main theme ws "preppy," but with a twist. "Miuccia did polo shirts for Miu Miu—she's never done that before," says Moore. "Marc Jacobs did an ode to Brideshead Revisited for Louis Vuitton. A lot of what we saw were designers taking classes and turning up the volume: They stretched out polo shirts in shocking colors. There were plaids which called to mind Lily Pulitzer and Brooks Brothers, but then they played it in neon."

Ugh. Anyhow -- be ready. These looks aren't horrible, but having grown up in Connecticut and Virginia, I'm personally way over preppy.

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Tuesday, August 31, 2004

Making it Look Easy

Can you spend too much time perfecting your look? Yep. I'm talking about seeming "fussy" -- something you want to avoid.

A large part of appearing stylishly elegant is dressing the part, and a large part of dressing stylishly elegant is making it look easy and unrushed.

In other words, don't make it look as if you've just spent hours fiddling with your shirt cuff to get it extending exactly one half-inch beyond your jacket cuff. That bow tie (if you're the sort that wears them -- more on that at some other time) doesn't need to be perfect. Your clothes should be clean and neatly pressed -- but they shouldn't look as if they were purloined from the window at Saks just before you came to work today. Wear the clothes, not the other way around. Even in formalwear, you don't need to look formal. You dig?

Here's a nifty rule of thumb. If any of these phrases come to mind while looking in the mirror, rethink your look: wooden, stilted, firing squad, full dress parade, vertebrae fusion.

An excerpt from an old New York Magazine interview with Tom Ford:

"You can put a Frenchman and an American man in the same outfit, stand them next to each other, and you’ll still see a difference; you’ll see it in the way the Frenchman stands, the way his tie is tied. I’ve been in trouble before for saying that Americans are too perfect in their approach to dressing, but Americans are descended from Puritans, and sometimes that comes through in their style. To have too much style is looked down upon in America, whereas for the French it is something to be celebrated."

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Wednesday, August 25, 2004

Striped Up Beyond All Recognition

Just a few thoughts on striped dress shirts. By "striped," I don't mean restrained, respectable stripes. I mean the crazy, multicolored, vertical stripes we've been seeing for too many seasons now.

Bad shirt patterns are easily among the top three causes of Fashion Victimization. Unfortunately, yes, stripes are still in. And no, most of them are hideous-looking on 99% of the population -- it's not just you.

Don't believe that these shirts can make you look horrible? Take this simple test. When considering a striped shirt, ask yourself:

Will this shirt cause someone looking at me to have a seizure?

While wearing this shirt, might people mistake me for a barber, a sideshow barker, or a TV test pattern?

Does this shirt look best when obscured by a tie and jacket?

Is this a Ben Sherman striped shirt?

Answer "yes" to any of the above, and tread carefully.

Argh!Argh!

In case you were wondering, these rules also apply to any sort of pattern. Be vigilant: Unfortunate patterns can sneak up anywhere -- Oh, no, Barneys!

Barneys!  What were you thinking??

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Monday, August 23, 2004

Get Your Barneys On

Spent part of my Sunday shopping at Barneys New York. If you're not from the area (or Chicago or Beverly Hills, where they also have locations,) you might not be familiar with the luxury retailer. But, oh man, you should be. Barneys carries big-name designer lables (Kiton, Prada, Zegna) as well as a slew of smaller designers, as well as its own house label -- and has impeccable taste. You'd be hard-pressed to dress yourself poorly by wearing anything you buy there. Their Web site is top-notch, too -- take a look and get some ideas, even if you can't afford to have Barneys stock your entire wardrobe.

And, if you are in the city, right now is the Barneys Warehouse sale. It runs through Monday, September 6th. Weekdays 10am-9pm, weekends 10am-7pm. 255 West 17th Street, (212) 450-8400.

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Wednesday, August 18, 2004

New suit styles

A look from Alexander McQueen

A followup on my previous post on Alexander McQueen. Take a good look at the suit's close-up. What do you see? Peaked lapels. You'll see that everywhere.

Good news: Broad, peaked lapels help shorter men look taller, and thinner men look wider.

Bad: Get too carried-away with the peaks and you'll look like how they sometimes depict the future in cheezy movies... you know, like, the 80s.

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A look from McQueen

A look from Alexander McQueen

Not much time to post today but wanted to pass along a suit from the new fall/winter collection from British designer Alexander McQueen. Even if you can't get the suit, you can affect a look like it.

Key points that you need to notice -- not about the suit, but about looking good. French cuffs extending well beyond the jacket sleeves. Top bottom buttoned. Trousers long -- but not too long.

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Thursday, August 12, 2004

Here a check, there a check, everywhere a Novacheck OR: What not to keep buying

One of the easiest ways to always look great is to remember that style, in large part, is about avoiding dressing like an idiot. Or, like everyone else -- especially when they're dressing like idiots.

Today, I've decided to tackle an issue that's long been vexing both men and women's fashion -- something that I've hoped would sort itself out, but still shows only a hint of abating.

The controversial novacheckAt issue is the use and abuse of one of the classic fashion patterns: the Burberry house check, the novacheck plaid. Here's the network TV pitch: A tasteful idea is driven to madness by rampant consumerism, misguided adventurism and sheer folly.

But first, a brief history of the Burberry house check. Burberry's [sic -- the name was officially changed to "Burberry" just a few years ago] came into being in Hampshire, England, in the mid-1800s. By the end of the century, the brand had won wide acclaim, particularly among sportsmen of the day, for its innovations in fabric (specifically gabardine, the waterproof sensation developed and patented by Thomas "Old Tom" Burberry) and outerwear (specifically, the equally sensational gabardine trench coat.)


Burberry's reputation soared through the early 1900s, receiving commissions to design military officers' uniforms and to outfit famous adventurers. There's a Burberry gabardine tent left at the south pole, it's said, and King Edward was such a fan of the brand that he's said to have called for his coat by saying "Give me my Burberry." I can't think of a major menswear brand today that can evoke a similar sense of refined sportiness and masculinity and (simultaneously) the upscale.

The 1920s saw the introduction of the Burberry's camel, black, white and red novacheck -- as a lining for the company's gabardine trench coats. This bears repeating: a lining for the company's flagship outwear garment. That is to say, the Burberry's house check was unseen almost all the time, except for fleeting moments such as when a man wore or removed his coat.

OK, it's a hankie, I know.By the late 60s, Burberry's of London began expanding use of the house check slightly, to also include accessories such as umbrellas, luggage, and scarves.

Fast-forward some decades. Times change, tastes change, and companies change. By the 90s, the onetime luxury brand Burberry's of London found itself in a rut, perceived generally as a raincoat maker. Ugh.

Burberry's subsequent turnaround story is one for the record books, and students of the fashion industry's business side will probably be pouring over accounts of the brand's phenomenal revitalization well into the next century. But while the company's -- now Burberry Group -- financial performance has seen quarters of heady growth, something got lost along the way. Self-respect, perhaps?

BlahThe theatrically named Rose Marie Bravo and designer Christopher Bailey (ex-Gucci) are credited with restoring Burberry's fortunes in the late 90s -- principally by expanding use of the house check to hitherto unprecedented levels.

This look isn't for you, even if you disagree with the rest of my post today.Bravo and Bailey extended the novacheck to every conceivable item of clothing. Suddenly, you could buy novacheck hats, novacheck shirts, novacheck trousers, novacheck socks, novacheck sandals, novacheck sunglasses, novacheck watchbands, novacheck formalwear, novacheck swimwear, novacheck underwear. (Women, as it happens, had even more choices. Novacheck bikinis, anyone?) And believing the novacheck signified both status and, now, hipness, the average consumer invested in it heavily. Too heavily.

Now, we've seen similar overexposed pattern/logo problems with Gucci, Coach, Fendi, and especially with Louis Vuitton (which, to its credit, has been kind enough to generally limit to bags its nigh-omnipresent brown "LV" signature pattern). But Burberry went over the top. The novacheck pattern was never meant to be this visible.

An ugly shirtSeemingly overnight, the novacheck -- which began as a lining, remember? -- had gone from sophisticated to banal. No one seemed to recognize that the pattern, in excess, looked positively garish, visually assaulting. The more we saw it become overexposed, the check lost its cachet as a reliable, respectable, classy and adventurous British brand. Aiming for hip, Bravo pushed the novacheck into triteness.

A doofy capToday, after excess in the early 2000s and the introductions of variations on the pattern (in pastels and greys, and in a stripe) the classic Burberry pattern itself no longer feels stylish. It's no longer classily subtle. It's not even stylishly flamboyant. It merely comes across as hackneyed.

Hackneyed? Oh, yes. Bravo hadn't stopped the adulteration of the Burberry's brand by applying the novacheck to every type of dress and casual attire imaginable... Anyone recall seeing skateboards sporting the novacheck? The novacheck diaper bag? The novacheck sun visor? The horror, the horror. This crap was OUT the moment it hit the stores!

An ugly shirt.God help us.A stylish doggie.  Humans often dress frighteningly similar.


Your takeaways from this diatribe: Don't buy anything novacheck'd -- yes, not even fakes, dimwit -- save for (maybe) a scarf or (maybe, maybe) an umbrella. Meanwhile, hope and pray that the novacheck reverts from an overblown, overused eyesore to an earlier, classier level of restrained visibility.

Until then, we can mourn the passing of a once-high-flying classic design. Seems fitting, considering that today marks the 78th anniversary of Thomas Burberry's death. Well, not really. He died April 4, 1926. But it makes for a better story, huh? I actually just wrote because of all the tourists outside my building, cooing at the Burberry knockoffs being hawked by the fake handbag seller there. Maybe I'll just republish this piece next April. Better let, let's just hope that I don't have to.

Vroom!

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Tuesday, August 10, 2004

Stand out

One quick way to improve your style: Don't be shoppin' where everyone else is. That means, think long and hard about stores like Banana Republic, and labels like Diesel, Seven Jeans, and so on. Yes, I know I've highlighted a few Diesel deals here and there. I'm not anti-Diesel. Rather, the secret is to avoid advertising that you're wearing brands that everyone owns, like Diesel. From those labels, look for quality pieces overlooked by the masses. You might be surprised.

But some stores and labels might be beyond hope. Banana Republic might be refashioning its image, but it'll still where most of your coworkers will be shopping -- and that should be reason enough to stay away.

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Friday, August 06, 2004

Michael Mann Style




The The New York Times Magazine has a profile of director Michael Mann ("Heat," "The Insider," "Miami Vice") that specifically focuses on his relationship with men's style and fashion.

"Mann has been known to change a character's clothing three times to get the proper effect. He can spot the wrong tie in a sea of extras and will park a boring white car next to a snazzier baby blue model to enhance the mood. 'Adding white always makes color burn a little,'' he has said. 'I got that idea from a 20th-century British painter.'

I saw Mann's latest, "Collateral," last night. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to see the credits to learn (if I could) who made Tom Cruise's fantastic grey suit. Single-breasted, single-button, side vents, slit (no-flap) pockets, flat-front trousers, and a great overall cut.

I wasn't the only one enjoying the suit. EurWeb notes: "The wardrobe of Cruise’s character was an important aspect of the characters' personality. 'While Vincent is in the same suit throughout the movie, it is a very expensive custom tailored suit with a certain foreign element to it,' said Mann."

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Thursday, August 05, 2004

Pre-Fall @ Bluefly

Like everyone else seems to be doing, Bluefly is allowing its users to get in early on a pre-fall sale. Members can get a jump on the deals before the unwashed masses do -- but today only! You've gotta register at the site to become a member.

The sale features some fairly mediocre shirts by Hugo Boss, and some better choices from Zegna, Polo, and Costume National. Skip directly to the suit section, though, and pick up some terrific deals from Gucci, Zegna and Cerruti. Donna Karen suits also are running about $150.

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Wednesday, August 04, 2004

Guyshop deals

Guyshop is letting its registered members get a head start on its end-of-summer sale (which actually includes new items for fall, ironically.) A tasty 20% off on all items. The sale opens to the public on August 9th, so you've got a precious few days to splurge before the unwashed masses move in.

A caveat, though. Guyshop leans heavily toward Ben Sherman and similarly inspired designers -- and loyal readers of this site will recall that I'm no fan of the campy Britishization of casual men's fashion. Avoid, avoid. That being said, there are still plenty of great deals on T-shirts, accessories, and more on the site. Membership registration is free.

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Friday, July 30, 2004

A Look from Armani Exchange


Something from Armani Exchange -- that amazingly doesn't look like B&T. (This is more of a test of my automated picture-posting prowess than it is fashion advice.) The shirt and the look are good (for summer) but I'd caution against over-accessorizing. That's easy to do with a too-thick brown necklace like this fellow has here, which could seem juvenile or surferish, depending on your intended look (and, of course, whether you actually are a juvenile or a surfer.)

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Thursday, July 29, 2004

Diesel Fall/Winter Preview

Speaking of Diesel, you can check out a bit of their Fall/Winter lineup on their Web site (still one of the best in the business, even if they make you suffer through an interminable Heavy Metal-esque interactive comic strip to see what's new for the season.)

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Diesel Sale

BlueFly is running a Diesel sale with up to 75% off.  A handful of deals on jeans, shoes, and shirts.  A fading brand, sure, but it's cheap.  I'd avoid the T-shirts -- they all seem to sport ridiculous huge numbers printed on the back, and the Diesel logo on front -- unless you're OK dressing like you're still 15 credits shy of graduation.

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